I made a promise to myself five years back that come New Year’s Eve, I shall run away from the hustle bustle of Delhi to somewhere quieter. Thanks to the promise, I have managed to explore places like Pondicherry, Pelling, Jodhpur, Mysuru. So, this year we planned to explore Ladakh.
Ladakh was created by the Goddesses and the Gods when they were feeling particularly overjoyed on one of their leisurely, no -fighting -evil days, and it reflects on the temperament of the inhabitants as well. As you descend towards Leh, you are greeted by rows of golden hued sand coloured mountains that seem to be guarding the higher, snow capped Himalayan ranges, like they are taunting you to the challenge.
But the multi-hued landscape exhibits a vision of co-existence, a place where barren mountains, desert like terrain and rivers collide and gleefully give way to the other only to intersect later.
The people of Leh practice Buddhism and the sanguine monasteries strewn across the valley are sensory treats. I was reminded of Pelling.
Having said that, the best time to visit Ladakh is during summers April-October.
Ladakh in winters is practically deserted, few people come here due to the extreme winters ( -15°C or 5°F) and high altitude. These two combined can cause or exacerbate conditions of mountain sickness and the State Government advisory implores you to take adequate precautions before and during your travel.
As a hypochondriac, I did follow the precautions to the T and ensured my husband did too ( he’s too scared of me mostly so that was easy), and it was mostly a comfortable stay for us. But we did face common problems such as loss of appetite, dizziness when walking and breathlessness.
The arid climate and high altitude make life difficult for the Ladakhi people. The lack of vegetation and the dry conditions result in limited farming options for the people. Wheat and barley are commonly grown and animal husbandry is also a common means of livelihood generation for certain tribes. In recent times, tourism has increased multifold and Ladakh has become one of the sought after travel destinations for both Indian and International visitors.
Recently, the Indian Government has also opened tourism for places like the Khaltse, Nubra & Nyoma Sub-Division.
Ladakh is so diverse that you would need to visit it multiple times, and trust me, you would want to, and the Magnetic Hill has no role to play in Ladakh’s magnetism.
It was my first visit and while the flight from Delhi takes just one hour, the clear blue skies greeting you on arrival makes you wonder if you have landed straight in heaven.
The temperature was freezing and we didn’t do much on the first day- a staple rule for acclimatization. In the evening, we did stroll around the Leh Bazaar and bought a few FOMO winter gear.
On the second day, we visited the Sham valley and the site where the Indus river intersects with the Zanskar river like two star crossed lovers that have finally found their way back to each other.
On the third day, that’s the first of January’24 we visited Nubra Valley and stopped at Khardung La, one of the world’s highest motorable pass situated at an altitude of 17,582 ft (5,359 m). The road to Khardung La is currently under construction and we faced a few minor roadblocks on the way. But the 360° view of the ever shifting landscape from golden hued mountains to snow streaked mountains is unparalleled.
We stopped at Khardung La for the mandatory photos while it was snowing and the road was covered in fresh snow. The summit has a few cafes and a medical centre. They are all managed by the Indian Army and the plaque at the summit correctly notes that what is an adventure for the visitors is a daily reality for the army.
We stepped out of our cab for only 10 minutes but could feel the lack of oxygen within the first few minutes. That coupled with the biting cold promptly pushed us back into the comforts of our cab.
We had a splendid time in the Nubra valley ( also called Ldumra, the valley of flowers) and I also had a bit of a mishap ( when it comes to travelling, mishap and I make quite a pair) and we trekked too. I have so much to share that I guess I have to make a series out of it.
But for now, just want to end this post with a wish that may this year continue to be as ‘top of the world’ of an experience as was our time in Ladakh.
Fingers in symphony 